Despite Oman having a long history, there wasn’t much evident of it in the
capital city Muscat, which is a city caught between being a hectic
middle-eastern metropolis and a resort town for rich oil-sheiks, depending on
where you are and your station in life. Therefore, in search of some history, I
took a coach out to Nizwa, a major city and oasis town in the desert interior of
the country.
Mustcat, Oman, is a busy city of about one and a half million people. In districts like
Al-Gubrah, it has wide, traffic-jammed boulevards lined with tall concrete
buildings. There often isn’t any pavement but instead the side of the road is a
car park for the shops on the ground floor. The sun was scorching when I
visited in October and the temperature around 39c. Therefore, I wanted to stay
in the shade as much as possible and that meant keeping close to the shop
fronts. However, the more I walked around, the more amusing I found the names of
the shops!
You are cruising the pacific coast of California in your Mustang, the wind flows through
your hair and the engine purrs as you thread the car through the gentle turns along the
coastal highway. What could be better? How about trundling along in a UAZ!
The smooth and fast road leading into Barskoon Valley.
On my recent trip to Kyrgyzstan, one of the highlights was the beautiful
Barskoon Valley. On the south shore of Lake Issyk-Kul, sits the town of Barskoon
and this road brings you up into the Tien-Shan mountains and beyond. Somewhat
unusual for Kyrgyzstan, is that this road doesn’t totally suck! We managed to do
about 90 km/h in our UAZ on this dirt track, while we could only manage about 20
km/h when we were travelling in the south of the country around Naryn.
The dunes of the pre-sahara, located in Merzouga, in the eastern extremities of the country, meld into the surf of the Atlantic beach of Essaouira. Double exposure on Kodak Gold film.
After a long winter and a damp spring, by April, it was finally time for a
holiday and the chosen venue this time was Morocco. For me, there is a particular
allure to leaving Europe and vacationing in a new continent and I have barely
scratched the surface of Africa so far in my life. Furthermore, the decision to travel to
Morocco was further spurred on by the fact that Ryanair flew to several
destinations in the country for less than $40, which is certainly a price that
can’t be argued with! Amongst those options, my friend and I chose to fly to
Essaouira, a small fishing town on the Atlantic coast, about midway down the
length of the country.
In August 2022, I spent a couple of weeks visiting the office in Berlin and decided
to take my Zorki-4K camera with me. I found a couple of rolls of Kodak ColorPlus in DM, so
decided to use that to capture my explorations of the city in my free-time.
Although ColorPlus is known as a cheap film, I was pleased with the results and although
it doesn’t have the fine detail of Kodak Portra, I think the colour reproduction is very near
as good. The following blog entry describes a bit of the back-story behind these photos.
At about 5:30, half-asleep and emerging from a tent smelling of maple-bacon, I caught this view.
The best photo I have taken has to be the one shown above, which I took in September 2019. I was travelling with a friend
from San Francisco, down to L.A. and then back up again. We had rented a Nissan pick-up truck, or really I should, as a self-respecting
Aussie, say Ute, which was of course a novelty for us compared to the “euro shitboxes” one mostly sees back at home. We were around
the Yosemite / Death Valley area and had found a lay-by off a forest road which was in an isolated spot, perched up on the gentle
gradient leading down to Mono Lake in the distance.
The peaks of Mount Ararat, the symbol of Armenia, float off in the horizon. On a clear day they can be seen from the capital, Yerevan. Though look carefully and you will see the border fence which now places it in Turkey.
Already preceding my entry into Armenia, had I heard accusations and assertions
about this place. It was on the train journey to Kars, a town in Turkey, near
to the border with Armenia, had we been conversing with a Turkish man who, when
we told him we were going to Armenia, made sure to explain that we would
hear much about the Armenian genocide, but that it simply wasn’t true. After
all, the Ottoman Empire was a powerful entity, he stressed to us, surely if they
wanted to exterminate the Armenian people, they would have done so thoroughly
and without any half-measures?
Horses hanging out while it snows in the wintry valley.
Georgia is a land of stunning geography but one of the highlights for me was our
tour starting in the capital and driving the Military Highway through the
Caucuses mountains up to Gudauri, which is a ski resort town. This road is
steeped in the history of the region, having been used by invaders and merchants since at
least the first century BC.
The Dogu Express reaches its penultimate stop, leaving enough time to buy and drink a quick Turkish coffee on the platform.
In November of 2022, I headed to Ankara for a two-week adventure through Turkey
and the Caucuses with a friend that I have known for many years. It had been a
trip months in the making, though it started with a humble suggestion during a
Discord chat one evening. Both being relatively early into our careers, we did
not have the luxury of spending money on long-haul flights to the U.S., a week’s
worth of hotels in an expensive state as well as the petrol needed to get us
around. Nor did the idea of staying in Europe and going to museums sound all
that excited to us adventure-seekers. So instead, it was more a question of how
far we could go for the least money and luckily, through browsing on Google
Flights, we found short-haul flights to Ankara that fit the description well. So
our destination had now become Ankara. But ask any Turk and they will tell you
that there isn’t much to see in this city. Therefore, we decided to take the
night train across the country and continue this journey into the Caucuses,
which I’ll probably describe in a further blog post.